
Massachusetts homeowners investing in tree planting projects face unique challenges that can determine whether their new trees thrive for decades or succumb to preventable diseases within a few years. From the steep slopes surrounding Worcester’s College of the Holy Cross to the clay soils common throughout neighborhoods like Crown Hill-Piedmont and the Eastside, proper planting technique serves as the foundation for long-term tree health and disease resistance.

Exposing the root flare, where the trunk widens into the root system, is the most essential element of planting trees to prevent disease in Central Massachusetts. The root flare must be visible above the soil to prevent a host of diseases that will occur if trees are not planted with this critical juncture exposed.
Oxygen exchange is required for tree roots to operate effectively. Most feeder roots are contained within the upper 12 inches of soil just below the root flare. If the critical juncture (root flare) is buried under soil or mulch, it produces anaerobic conditions that promote the presence of fungi and bacteria. Phloem tissue in this area is responsible for transporting energy from leaves to all parts of the tree. Once this tissue is constantly saturated with moisture due to burial, it will begin to decay.
Trees planted near historic properties in downtown Worcester, or in established neighborhoods, have an additional challenge: competing with established root systems and developing their own growth pattern. Once a root flare is buried, the new tree can’t win this competition.
Root flares are often buried in the soil of container-grown and balled-and-burlapped trees. Before digging the planting hole, gently remove the soil from around the trunk until the trunk begins to widen, indicating the location of the root flare. Depending on the amount of excess soil covering the root flare, the removal process can take anywhere from 4 to 6 inches of excess soil, and may reveal the true planting depth for healthy establishment.
As a routine practice, Worcester Tree Trim and Removal finds that root flares are buried 8 inches or more below the soil surface in nursery stock. Locating the root flare before planting reduces the possibility of decades of future problems and establishes the proper planting hole depth from the start.
There are many factors to consider when selecting the type of planting hole specifications for a tree, including the characteristics of the local soil. Massachusetts clay soils, such as those found in Worcester, require special planting hole dimensions and soil preparation methods to allow for proper root development and to prevent the creation of disease-promoting conditions.
Dig planting holes no deeper than the height of the root ball, measured from the root flare (the area of the tree trunk where the trunk begins to expand into the root system) to the bottom of the root system. Digging holes too deeply will cause the roots to grow upwards instead of outwards, leading to circling roots. The planting hole should be wide enough to accommodate the spread of the root ball, about three times its diameter, allowing for room to accommodate root growth and to ensure adequate soil contact.
When placing the tree in the planting hole, the root flare should be placed 2-4 inches above the grade of the surrounding soil. This is a safe margin to allow for settlement and still keep the root flare above the soil line to prevent disease-causing moisture buildup and to ensure oxygen availability to the roots.
Traditional methods for preparing the backfill for a newly planted tree are being challenged by recent research. Best management practices now advocate for using native soils in the planting hole rather than amended soils. Native soils will drain better than amended soils and will not tie up nutrients in the root zone as amended soils do. Worcester’s clay soils, while sometimes difficult to manage in terms of gardening, provide excellent structural support to trees if properly managed.
At the bottom of the planting hole, there should be either undisturbed native soil or compacted native soil to prevent settling that would eventually cover the root flare. Loose soil at the bottom of the hole will allow the tree to settle as it grows and negate the importance of getting the initial planting depth correct.
Climate and disease pressure in Central Massachusetts are factors that must be considered when selecting a species of tree. Choosing a species of tree that is resistant to disease will help to ensure the success of your landscaping efforts.
When considering planting oak trees in Worcester, choose varieties that are resistant to oak-wilt disease. Oak-wilt disease is a significant problem in Worcester, and the use of resistant varieties will give your trees the best opportunity to survive.
When choosing maple trees, select varieties that are resistant to anthracnose and leaf-spot diseases. Sugar maples tend to be better than Norway maples in terms of disease resistance in Massachusetts. Additionally, sugar maples provide food and habitat for native wildlife species that depend upon indigenous tree species.
Some tree species create disease pressure on nearby trees. Apple and crabapple trees should be planted at least 500 feet away from eastern red cedars to prevent the cycling of cedar-apple rust disease. Dogwoods also thrive when they are not planted near oak trees that may harbor cross-infecting pathogens.
If you live in an area with high moisture levels, such as near the Blackstone River Bikeway, plant species of trees that are resistant to root-rot diseases. Plant trees that are adapted to occasional wet conditions.
Using the right mulching techniques will support the health of your tree while preventing the moisture-related problems that promote fungal diseases common in Massachusetts landscapes.
To apply organic mulch correctly, place the mulch in a donut shape around the tree, approximately 3 times the diameter of the root ball, leaving a 3-12 inch mulch-free zone around the root flare. Maintain the mulch depth at a maximum of 2-4 inches, tapering to 1-2 inches near the base of the tree.
Do not create mulching volcanoes where mulch is piled high against the trunk of the tree. Piling mulch against the trunk of the tree traps moisture against the bark tissue of the tree, creating an ideal environment for fungal infections and insects. Mulch volcanoes also encourage adventitious root development that can result in girdling roots years after the fact.
Shredded hardwoods and wood chips are two examples of organic mulch materials that benefit tree establishment and do not contribute to disease problems. Shredded hardwoods and wood chips decompose slowly, improving soil structure and providing consistent moisture retention without creating a condition of excessive moisture.
Both pine bark mulch and hardwood chips are effective options for mulching in Worcester. However, avoid using freshly harvested wood chips directly around newly planted trees, since they can temporarily tie up nitrogen as they decompose initially.
Correct irrigation techniques during the establishment phase of tree growth are extremely important to disease susceptibility and long-term tree health in Massachusetts.
Deep, infrequent watering promotes healthy root growth and prevents the consistently moist conditions that promote fungal diseases. Water should penetrate the entire root-zone depth and not simply the top layer of soil. It is best to monitor soil moisture at root-ball depth rather than rely on surface conditions, as clay soils can appear dry on the surface while holding moisture at the root level. This is especially true during Worcester’s unpredictable spring weather, when moisture levels can fluctuate rapidly.
Spring and fall are the best seasons to plant trees in Massachusetts, each with advantages in terms of disease prevention and tree establishment. Planting trees in the spring allows for a full year of establishment before the onset of winter stress, while planting trees in the fall allows for a cool and moist growing season with less disease pressure than is present during the hot, humid days of mid-summer.
Planting trees in the middle of the summer is the worst possible time. Mid-summer is the peak of the hot and humid season and is the time when disease pressure is the greatest and establishment stress is at its highest. Young trees are the most susceptible to a variety of fungal infections that are common in the New England climate.
While homeowners can install trees properly, there are advantages to hiring professionals to install trees that will positively impact the long-term resistance to disease and the success rate of your trees.
Arborists who are certified in tree care are knowledgeable about the needs of individual tree species and can evaluate the site conditions of a property to determine whether any existing disease issues could potentially harm a newly installed tree. Arborists can identify soil drainage problems, proximity to existing diseased trees, and planting distances that can ultimately negatively impact the health of your tree.
Hiring a certified arborist to install your tree ensures that your tree is properly installed with respect to exposing the root flare, proper planting depth, and proper mulching techniques from the very beginning. Establishing these fundamentals from the beginning is far easier than trying to fix them years after the tree was originally planted.
Worcester Tree Trim and Removal understands the environmental conditions of Central Massachusetts and how these conditions affect the growth and survival of different tree species. Worcester Tree Trim and Removal provides the local expertise combined with best management practices that will provide the best possible outcomes for property owners in the Worcester area.
A successful tree planting goes beyond the installation day. Ongoing monitoring of your tree and taking steps to prevent and treat problems before they arise will ensure the continued health and resistance to disease of your tree.
Inspecting your tree regularly for the first couple of years after planting will enable you to detect any potential problems, such as girdling roots, signs of disease, or establishment issues. Check your tree for any abnormalities in foliage color, size, or timing that may indicate stress or disease development. Also, check the area around the root flare to ensure that it remains visible and free of accumulated soil and mulch. Many tree problems develop over a period of years, so it is imperative to catch problems early and take action to prevent them from becoming major issues that require costly repairs or the removal of the tree.
By working with professionals to provide ongoing assessments and preventative care programs, you will be able to maintain the health of your tree while addressing any potential problems before they become serious issues that require costly repair or tree removal.